center_wing_hardware_3.JPGrear spar hardware from aft view222 views
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center_wing_5.JPGcenter wing with bottom skin on207 viewsAt this point, there is only a fuel tank and top skin to install. On the scale it weighs 35.5# and represents 5' of the upper wing. The remainder will not add much. We believe the weight penalty for the 3-pc wing over the standard to be about 20-25#.
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skybolt_parts_080.jpgFirst parts with new mini-lathe205 viewsMacarena is turning the end caps for the compression tubes in the Delta upper wing as a first project with her new lathe.
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center_wing_4.JPGbottom skin glued to center wing section202 viewsIt took some creative clamping to hold the skin in place while the glue dried. The cam straps were something we had. The scrap wood over the front edge of the skin needed four temporary screws to keep it in place.
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skybolt_parts_001.jpgYear-end collection202 viewsThis is our pile of fittings at the end of the year (80 hours of work). Some are complete and some are in progress. Lower left fittings are for the D wing attachment.
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skybolt_parts_046.jpgWingtip bow jig196 viewsWe like using the router with a long plexiglass base to cut a radius. We cut a second radius about 1 1/2" smaller and not completely through to attach clamps.
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skybolt_parts_086.jpgcompleted lathe work196 viewsThese are the completed compression tubes. The second lathe job was to drill the upper tubes for the rudder pedals for the 3/16" threaded rod (hinge pins). The holes came out perfectly centered.
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skybolt_parts_058.jpgMore fittings195 viewsPictured are Delta cabane mounts, small brackets for the Hale Wallace canopy, landing gear and wing attachments, landing gear washers, drag links, brake backing plates and some parts to build the 3-pc wing attachments.
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center_wing_hardware_2.JPGhardware at rear spar189 views
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skybolt_parts_023.jpgMore fittings187 viewsHere are a few more fittings recently completed. Upper left are front and rear outer wing attachments (Delta). Bottom right are mating attachments on the center wing section. These have a 6.5 degree bend. The aluminum angle is to attach the outer rib. Upper middle are some 3/16" links with a 2 degree bend. Right of that are brake parts and idler arm posts. All matching parts were meticulously stacked and clamped for drilling.
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skybolt_parts_009.jpgbrake pedal tubing miter box185 viewsThere is an extra cut in this miter box to keep the two miters in the correct plane to each other and size the tubes to 3" long.
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center_wing_hardware_1.JPGhardware at front spar180 views
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skybolt_parts_066.jpgWingtip in jig180 viewsYou can never have too many clamps
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skybolt_parts_007.jpgAluminum bending blocks173 views1/8, 3/16 and 1/4" radius from left to right shaped with a router. The block on the left has additional 5 degree bevel for springback.
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skybolt_parts_033.jpg172 viewsA fence was put clamped to the bandsaw to make the two cuts for the notches in the nose ribs.
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skybolt_parts_047.jpgUpper butt rib construction169 viewsTrimming back the plywood with a laminate trimmer
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skybolt_parts_008.jpgD wing attachment bending blocks168 viewsThe maple block on the left has a 6'5 degree bevel to check the bend. The fitting sandwiches between the aluminum blocks for the actual bending. There is a 12 degree bevel on the bottom aluminum block to allow for springback.
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skybolt_parts_065.jpgCenter section ribs168 viewsPictured are the butt ribs for the center section before the second skin went on and the inner ribs for the center section. Also pictured is the jig to build these ribs.
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skybolt_parts_074.jpgUpper wing ribs168 viewsThis is two of our completed upper wing ribs. We still need to clearcoat the outside. The hard to get to spots are already done.
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skybolt_parts_004.jpgbending block for wing attachment fitting166 viewsMade from some white oak we had laying around.
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skybolt_parts_075.jpgUpper wing ribs165 viewsFrom this picture you can just make out that the nose rib and capstrip is 1/16" smaller in the area where the leading edge sits. This really wasn't that hard to do.
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IMG_0271.JPGBending blocks for stick boots160 viewsHad this white oak left over from a furniture project. The block on the right is to make the 1 1/2" radius bend and the block on the left is to squash the top of the boots to 1 3/8".
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skybolt_parts_069.jpgWing tip and center section bows158 viewsThese are completed wintip bows and a completed center section bow. It is a much larger radius for the Delta upper wing.
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skybolt_parts_035.jpgcompleted nose ribs155 viewsFrom top left clockwise- lower wings ribs, upper wing ribs, delta center wing ribs, delta center wing butt ribs, delta outer wing butt ribs. All are very precise copies. Believe me, she is obsessive about that.
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center_wing_3.JPGcenter section assembly152 viewsThe clamps are holding the spars and ribs while the T-88 sets.
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flanging_with_dies.JPGflanging the ribs150 viewsWe tried flanging the ribs with a slotted stick and didn't like the results. We ended up making flanging dies in wood for flanging as pictured which worked much better.
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skybolt_parts_024.jpg149 viewsWe are very big on making jigs to replicate parts with precision. By making our jigs as precise as possible, all parts made from those jigs will have the same precision. We made four jigs to make the nose ribs. Rectangular plywood pieces were first rough cut with a scroll saw. Then the interior lightening hole was trimmed flush with a laminate trimmer. Next the outside was rough cut with the scroll saw and then dropped into the two jigs mounted to the plywood for the final outside trimming.
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skybolt_parts_021.jpg143 viewsRouting the outside edge of the nose ribs.
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engine_mount.JPGEngine mount142 viewsThis is the 540 mount we purchased from Steen. If you are purchasing a mount, I would highly recommend doing it before installing the two diagonals at station 0-0. Many builders had trouble with their engine mount spools fitting after these tubes were installed. These spools are now tacked ready for finish welding. They fit perfectly.
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IMG_0272.JPGBending block for bellcrank bracket141 views
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IMG_0268.JPGbrake tubing miter box139 viewsWe needed a small miter box to hold the 1/2" brake pedal tubing.
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wing_tank_with_baffles.JPGWing tank with clecos139 viewsThe tank skin and baffles are made from .040 5052 aluminum. This is the tank clecoed together ready for beading and riveting.
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ready_to_assemble.JPGtank skin and baffles ready to assemble138 views
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tail_section.JPGTail section137 viewsThis photo shows the plans bracket below the tailpost and the rear tailwire mount.
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Hatz_winner.JPGHatz Gold Lindy Winner134 viewsThis Hatz was parked in one of the aircraft camping areas so we weren't comfortable getting too close. If we had known it would be the Plans built Gold Lindy winner, we might have been a little bolder!
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skybolt_parts_020.jpg133 viewsRough cutting the nose ribs with a scroll saw.
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rudder_pedal_mounts.JPGRudder pedal mounts132 viewsThis set of bushings is for the standard mounting location for the front passenger. We will be mounting an extra set for each seat that will actually fit the two of us better. The forward locations will rarely be used but we felt they should be there in case someone taller is flying this plane. To align these we just jigged them with a 3/4" scrap tube stuffed all the way through and clamped in place.
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skybolt_parts_026.jpgFuel tank baffle jig130 viewsThis jig was made to bend and cut out the lightening holes for the baffles and ends of the 18 gallon tank.
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belly_former.JPGBelly former128 viewsThis belly former was going to be difficult to weld after the rear landing gear mounts were installed so we decided to weld it in first. The belly formers were bent around a substantially smaller radius cut out of plywood. We will use the mdf jig in the picture to install all of the belly formers so they come out exactly the same.
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Rear_cabane_mounts.JPGRear cabane mounts128 viewsThere isn't precise measurements in the Delta plans for these mounts. We wanted them as symmetrical as possible regardless. The scrap piece of oak was cut with the proper angle and used to jig the two mounts at the same elevation and the same distance back from the firewall. These are only tacked at this point and need to be bent with heat around the vertical tubes.
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front_landing_gear_fitting.JPGfront landing gear mount126 viewsWe borrowed an idea from Al Rice's site. We used small copper plumbing couplings over 3/8" threaded rod for jigging the landing gear. This compensates for the 7/16" holes in the front mounts. The rear mounts have 3/8" holes. This is now jigged ready for tacking.
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skybolt_parts_018.jpgDelta center wing ribs.126 viewsThe Delta center wing section has only four ribs. The capstrip for two are 1 1/4" X 3/4" and two are 5/8" by 1/2". We made the mdf jig (behind) to trim the outer edge of the ribs so they were all the same. The less critical inside edge was cut with a band saw and sanded.
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cabane_tubes.JPGcabane tubes125 viewsAll four cabane tubes with one end completed with .050 reinforcement plates. The overall measurement will be checked one more time before a similar treatment happens to the other end.
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seats_and_turtledeck_mockup.JPGAdjustable seats125 viewsThese seats are nearly complete. There are four height locations. The foam board turtledeck mockup is to check which setting is working out best for us.
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walking_beam.JPGwalking beam123 viewsThis walking beam installation is as per plans.
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baffles_after_flanging.JPGfour baffles with form and flanging dies121 views
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fuselage_side.JPGOne fuselage side tack welded121 views
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reverser.JPGReverser118 viewsReverser as per plans below custom battery box
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fuel_tank_mounts.JPGFuel tank mounting bushings116 viewsWe held these bushings slightly lower than the plans show to allow the t-bolts for the upper straps to clear the sheet metal above. The threaded ends of the t-bolts for the lower straps will have to be cut shorter after the tank is mounted. We will weld the edges of the riveted straps before we are finished.
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skybolt_parts_079.jpgRudder ready for tack welding116 viewsIt took most of an afternoon to bend the 3/8" tubing to make the trailing edge of the rudder with a conduit bender. I am looking forward to bending the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer. We discovered it is possible to heat the 7/8" rudder post to a dull red using mapp gas. Hot enough to flatten the end as needed.
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Burgundy_Waco.JPGGoregeous Waco115 views
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coping_with_lathe.JPGtubing setup in lathe115 views
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coping_with_lathe_2.JPGcoping tubes with a ream in a lathe112 views
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skybolt_parts_067.jpgTail ribs and wood forms112 viewsThe sheet metal brake will only do part of the job bending up the tail ribs. We made a series of tapered wedges with radius bottoms and a 35 degree chamfer at the top to finish the job. There are also straight hardwood forms for the horizontal stabilizer ribs. This method has proven to work reasonably well.
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Red_Waco.JPGAnother beautiful Waco111 views
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battery_box.JPGBattery box110 viewsThere is still a bit of welding left at this point. This battery box is built to accept an Oddyssey battery laying down with their cover or a Concorde battery standing up in the recess. The relay mounts on the flat plate and there is a nut welded to the bottom side of a spare hole for a ground. I didn't want to trust a riveted plate nut to complete a good ground here.
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hand_hold_construction.JPGMaking a handhold109 viewsMisc bits of scrap steel used to bend up a handhold. The tubing used was 3/8' X .049.
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Tiger__Moth.JPGGreat little Tiger Moth109 views
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bottom_center_stringer.JPGbottom center stringer108 viewsThis view looking aft shows two special standoffs made to bridge over the 1st push-pull tube from the torque tube.
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fuel_tank_front.JPGfuel tank from above107 viewsNote the tank will need to be slid forward under the sway wire fittings (D version).
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fuel_tank_vents.JPGFuel tank vents105 viewsThere is a separate vent outlet for each chamber, upper and lower. Right angle AN fittings will be needed to clear the firewall.
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stringer_termination.JPGStringer termination aft104 viewsWe created this bracket to terminate the stringers. If you look close you will see it is drilled for two nutplates. We plan to fabricate an aluminum bracket to exit the breather tube (from the slobber pot) here and attach it using these nutplates.
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horizontal_stab_mount.JPGHorizontal stab mount103 viewsThere is still a bit of welding to do on these at this point. This is the second one of these we made. The first had the bushings slightly out of parallel to each other.
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fuel_tank_outlet.JPGfuel tank inlet101 viewsNote the inlet for the flp tube. There should be plenty of room on the firewall to mount a boost pump just below the tank and higher than the gascolator.
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Stearmann.JPGA nice Stearman100 views
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fuel_tank_side.JPGfuel tank side99 views
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horizontal_stab.JPGHorizontal Stabilizer98 viewsready for welding
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inward_cross_tubes.JPGinward end of cross tubes98 viewsIn this photo the .063 wrappers around the tube ends are fully welded. We also added .050 end caps at the streamline tube ends instead of heat bending the streamline to meet the cross tubes. I am sure either way would work fine.
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Purple___gold_Waco.JPGOne of several beautiful Wacos97 views
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front_mount.JPGFront gear mount wrapper95 viewsReasonably easy wrapper to bend with a little heat and a rounded piece of bar stock to bend it into tight places.
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Fuel_tank_rear~0.JPGfuel tank rear95 views
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aileron_stops.JPGaileron stops clamped and tacked94 viewsCalculating the angle and making the jig to hold everything in place probably took much longer than actually making the stops and welding them in place. The extra tube in the floor is to help support someone placing full weight on the planned carbon composite floorboard here. This is one of the few places someone could do that so it warranted a bit of reinforcement.
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bottom_center_stringer_aft.JPGAft view of the bottom center stringer94 viewsWe are planning on only 3 stringers on the bottom to save weight. Have not decided yet on the side stringer quantity (3 or 5).
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handholds.JPGhandholds installed94 views
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wrapper_#2.JPGanother wrapper welded up94 viewsTack, heat bend, tack, heat bend, tack, heat bend until all edges are down. Not too difficult.
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elevator_in_progress.JPG93 views
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completed_gear.JPGCompleted landing gear92 viewsBoth sides are fully welded. We lost about 1/16' from welding between the front and rear leg bushings. We reinstalled the gear here and applied a bit of heat with Mapp gas to get things to "relax" a bit. That worked out fine.
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Chipmunk.JPGA nice chipmunk91 views
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Upper_wing_view.JPGforward visibility88 viewsNote the stagger and sway wires in place. There is still one more pair of sway wires located a few inches behind the forward set seen in the picture. This pair will require making a hole through the bottom plywood skin. The forward set will require a hole through the ply leading edge.
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Rear_wing_mount.JPGRear cabane attachment upper84 views
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aileron_stops_2.JPGaileron stops82 viewsWe determined after calculating the geometry that the axis of the stick wants to move approximately 16 degrees left and right of center for full travel. Therefore these stops are 16 degrees from horizontal to hit the stick boot squarely at full travel. The bolts are for minor adjustments. They will each get a check nut.
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lower_wing_fuse_mount.JPGRear cabane attachment lower82 views
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axle_jig.JPGaxle jigged in place77 viewsWe used a jig made with MDF and scrap maple to hold the axle parallel to the lower longerons and back from the firewall the correct measurement. Unfortunately, no more pics of this. There is a bottom ply resting on the longerons and two angle braces holding it dead vertical.
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lndg_gear_bracket_jig.JPGgear mounts jigged76 viewsOne thing I would never do again is use threaded rod inserted through gear fittings to line them up. Threaded rod flexes too much and though it worked here, it caused some extra work elsewhere.
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P8231544.JPG3 stringer side76 viewsWe settled on 3 stringers on each side and 3 on the belly. We didn't feel there was enough of an appearance difference to go with 5 stringers and the added weight that comes with it. Also the fabric is being taken as far forward as possible. Save a few ounces here, save a few there, it's all good as far as we are concerned.
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cross_tube.JPGCross tube74 viewsThis was a fairly simple fit from cross tube to the front leg.
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upper_wing_forward_mount.JPGforward cabane attachment upper74 views
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axle_wrapper.JPGFront axle wrapper72 viewsThese wrappers are surprisingly easy to bend with a little heat from Mapp gas. The safety wire is to hold the very small cap in position for tacking.
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side_stringer_termination.JPGside stringer termination71 viewsTo jig a small tab to attach the aft end of a side stringer, we clamped a piece of 5/16" steel bar stock in place and then clamped the tab to that. The aluminum stringers could not be used to hold the tab because it could not take the heat of the welding.
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completed_axle.JPGComplete axle70 viewsThere are a couple of tight spots to weld with a TIG torch. Another forum member left the axle longer to allow for a floor jack. As heavy as the axle tube was, we decided to leave no more than on the plans.
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lndg_gear_tacked.JPGgear tacked up70 viewsEverything tacked in place here. The cross tube needs to be cut after a bit more welding so nothing moves.
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P8231545.JPGsheet metal attachments70 viewsThe strip along the longeron is made from .032 4130. It has dimpled holes for dimpled platenuts and 1/2" lightening holes. The 58 holes that will be drilled for this purpose save a total of 4 ounces. Is it worth it? We think so.
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rear_mount.JPGrear gear mount70 views
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front_landing_gear_fitting~0.JPGFront gear mount clamped in place67 views
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P8231553.JPGmount for throttle quadrant65 viewsThe mount is made from .063 plate with a lightening hole (everything helps). It was attached with 2 3/4" beads on one side and one bead on the other. We made the throttle quadrant. Handles not shown here.
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axle_tacked.JPGFront gear tacked up61 views
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P8231554.JPGTrim handle mount60 viewsHere you see a mount for the typical trim handle with push-pull cables. To get the mount where we wanted we reluctantly added the 3/4" X .035 tube shown. We realized after it was tacked that the stringer standoff to the left would be in the way of full trim travel. We added the one to the right with the standoff tube mounted at an angle. The first standoff will be cut out.
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pilot__rudder_pedals.JPGPilot's rudder pedals56 viewsPictured is our pilot's right rudder pedal with two mounting locations. We will use the aft one. The forward mount is as per plans. The master cylinder is the longest one we could find- a Matco 4NGA. this was used to create the best parallelogram. The mount with lightening holes was made from .063 plate and will be located under the floorboard.
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passenger_rudder_pedal.JPGPassenger's rudder pedal53 viewsPictured is the right passenger's rudder and brake pedals with two mounting locations. In this photo the forward location has a 3/4" X .058 aluminum tube and 7/8" X .58 aluminum sleeve holding a small piece of hardware we made that retains the end of the return spring. There is a small foam peanut jammed under the brake pedal to make it stand up for the photo.
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vertical_stabilizer.JPGvertical stab40 viewsThis is the vertical stab tacked after being jigged on the MDF board. We thought this would make an easier installation than jigging the curved leading edge and ribs in the air. It will be inserted into the lower half of the tailpost and then centered on the fuse centerline, then tacked in place and finished.
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