P8200005.JPGAileron well167 viewsClamping
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P4130046.jpgCompression rib94 viewsClamped on with nailers
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P4270072.jpgTrailing edge117 viewsclamping with cable ties
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Dscf0080.jpgAileron clamping84 viewsImage shows the spacers clamped or screwed in place. It is essential that everything is flat, straight, and square.
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Dscf0081.jpgClamping86 viewsThe spacers here were rebated so as to clear any glue that may ooze from the rib joint.
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Dscf0134.jpgPly leading edge110 views1/16 mahogany bottom ply skin tacked and clamped. Scrap spruce is great for nailing thru...helps to reduce scarring when extracting the staples.
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hingedoublerclamp.jpgSetting ribs104 viewsSimple jig to clamp the 1/4 and 1/8 hinge doublers to the spar. Note the wax paper!
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P3120216.jpgLeading edge104 viewsThe ply is dry-clamped and left for a couple of weeks...
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Pb040058.jpgLeading edge110 viewsclamping
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Pb040063.jpgLeading edge115 viewsClamping down with straps
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Pb060001.jpgLeading edge102 viewsThe final clamp
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Pb150010.jpgSetting97 viewsAll clamped up...
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Pb200003.jpgNose ribs99 viewsnose ribs glued, clamped and wedged...
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P9070005.JPGSetting135 viewsClamping up
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P9090008.jpgSetting compression ribs153 viewsClamped up
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P9120002.jpgClamping133 viewsBusy scene...
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P9130008.jpgTE clamping146 viewsCable ties are handy things
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P4200050.jpgI-strut jig80 viewsClamped for drilling
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Dscf0099.jpgBow jig77 viewsall finally wedged, glued and clamped
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DSCF0129.JPGClamping69 viewsThe setup was placed on a flat floor with weights for 2 weeks in this configuration...
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StandRearPivot.JPGRear Fuselage Stand121 viewsFor the fuselage stand at the tail, I made a steel bracket from some scrap tubing and clamped it to the tailpost. In the 2x4, I cut a hole for the pivot and a slot. I can adjust friction with the clamp. It all works perfectly.
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StandFront.JPGFront Stand Mount123 viewsTo make the mount for the front of the fuselage, I welded some steel plate to some tubing, bolted it to a 2x4, clamped it to the fuselage tubes and drilled a hole and a slot through the vertical 2x4. With the clamp, I can adjust the friction and rotate the fuse into any position for welding.
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TailBrkt3.JPGBracket Parts105 viewsThe top clamp was supplied by Steen Aerolab when I bought the tailwheel assembly. The base is made of .063 plate, 3/8" bushings reamed to 1/4" and a split piece of tubing to support the tailspring.
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Pc160001.jpgwing walk156 viewsstringers clamped
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skybolt_parts_033.jpg172 viewsA fence was put clamped to the bandsaw to make the two cuts for the notches in the nose ribs.
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skybolt_parts_046.jpgWingtip bow jig196 viewsWe like using the router with a long plexiglass base to cut a radius. We cut a second radius about 1 1/2" smaller and not completely through to attach clamps.
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skybolt_parts_066.jpgWingtip in jig180 viewsYou can never have too many clamps
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Top_wing_spars_clamped_in_jig.jpg104 views
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Wing_tip_bow_clamped_up.jpg132 views
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Wing_tip_bow_clamped_and_glued_up.jpg148 views
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Top_wing_fuel_tank_cover_glued_and_clamped_in_place.jpg85 views
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DSCF0028.JPGtrailing edge clamped with tie wraps110 views
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NotchTube645.jpgNotching Tubing234 viewsThis is my Accujigger that I used to notch all my tubing. It does a pretty good job of holding the tubing securely and at the right angle. Notice the spin index that clamps the tubing in place. It is just like the spin indexes that you find on a metal lathe. It allows you to accurately spin the tubing 180 deg and notch the other side.
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Pedal_Const6.jpg47 viewsThese are the tabs that will be welded to the toe brake pedals for the pivots. Cut 1/2 inch strips from the 3" plate stock and recut them in half so 4 1/2" strips cut in half gave me 8 tabs. I stacked them, clamped them and gang drilled the hole, them reamed to 3/16. While still all clamped together I ran them on the belt sander to form them nice.
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Cabane_Const1.jpg59 viewsSet up jig plates for upper bushings directly from Steen's builders guide with their measurments. Clamped to upper longerongs and braced for no front to back movement.
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center_wing_4.JPGbottom skin glued to center wing section202 viewsIt took some creative clamping to hold the skin in place while the glue dried. The cam straps were something we had. The scrap wood over the front edge of the skin needed four temporary screws to keep it in place.
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center_wing_3.JPGcenter section assembly152 viewsThe clamps are holding the spars and ribs while the T-88 sets.
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Top_plywood_tank_cover_glued_and_clamped_in_place.jpg77 views
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Top_plywood_skin_glued_and_clamped.jpg81 views
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Lower_view_of_clamped_top_plywood_skin.jpg69 views
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Front_view_of_top_clamped_plywood_skin.jpg53 views
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End_view_of_clamped_top_plywood_skin.jpg58 views
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Clamping_top_plywood_skin_on__to_aileron.jpg71 views
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Checking_clamps_prior_to_gluing_on_top_plywood_skin.jpg72 views
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Aileron_top_plywood_skin_glued_and_clamped.jpg66 views
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rudder_pedal_mounts.JPGRudder pedal mounts132 viewsThis set of bushings is for the standard mounting location for the front passenger. We will be mounting an extra set for each seat that will actually fit the two of us better. The forward locations will rarely be used but we felt they should be there in case someone taller is flying this plane. To align these we just jigged them with a 3/4" scrap tube stuffed all the way through and clamped in place.
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front_landing_gear_fitting~0.JPGFront gear mount clamped in place67 views
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DSC_0206post.jpgDrilling The Crush Plugs64 viewsCarefully position the metal fittings on both sides for proper orientation and alignment, bolt them in place using the holes in the portions of the plate extending beyond the spar and clamp well onto the spar.
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aileron_stops.JPGaileron stops clamped and tacked94 viewsCalculating the angle and making the jig to hold everything in place probably took much longer than actually making the stops and welding them in place. The extra tube in the floor is to help support someone placing full weight on the planned carbon composite floorboard here. This is one of the few places someone could do that so it warranted a bit of reinforcement.
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StickSocket_5Lg.JPGMaking the Stick Socket60 viewsSqueezing the end/bottom of the stick socket. ID needs to be 5/8". Per the Skybolt Builder's Manual, I placed a few pieces of 5/8" sq tubing inside of the cut out, clamped it into the vice and gave a few good turns on the handle. Came out nice.
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side_stringer_termination.JPGside stringer termination71 viewsTo jig a small tab to attach the aft end of a side stringer, we clamped a piece of 5/16" steel bar stock in place and then clamped the tab to that. The aluminum stringers could not be used to hold the tab because it could not take the heat of the welding.
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JigforJig_med.JPGJig for making jig9 viewsHere is the jig for holding the router to make the 51 1/4" radius curve for the jig to make the trailing edge of the R/D Skybolt upper wing center section. The notches you see (and I made more of those) are for making it easy to clamp the lengths of spruce to the radius
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UWCSCaps_lg.JPGCap Strips24 viewsTwo of the eight 3/4" thick cap strips... after being pulled from the jig. Still needs to have all that squeeze out of the glue cleaned off.
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UWCSCaps_sanded_lg.JPGCap Strips27 viewsThe 3/4" thick cap strips after all the squeeze out has been filed/sanded/whatever off. Four of these are 1 1/4" wide four are 5/8" wide.
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UWCSCapClamped.JPGCap Strips24 viewsMaking the 3/4" thick cap strips... in three 1/4" layers. Here are two of them clamped to the jig.
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UWCS_TrailingEdge_med.JPGRadial Skybolt Upper Wing Center Section trailing edge12 viewsAfter all the clamping and all the glueing... the 51 1/4", 55 7/8" wide blank for making the trailing edge for the Radial Skybolt Upper Wing Center Section. The two scraps of wood on each side denotes the length of the piece.
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ClampingTE.JPGRadial Skybolt Upper Wing Center Section trailing edge9 viewsAll six layers all clamped up. Slots were routed into the jig, approx. 3" in, for easy clamping. Worked like a champ. Similar to what JimW did.
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FilingSpars_1med.JPGFiling notches in spars13 viewsThe Upper Wing Center Section spars have 1/8" notches on the bottom ends. Pretty simple to do. I measure 1/8" in on both sides, clamped straight pieces of 4130 along each line and filed away. All four came out beautifully.
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BungeeTrussHoleCuts.jpgCuttin' Holes in the Bungee Truss80 viewsAfter tacking both sides of the truss I re-inserted it into the jig. Laying a scrap piece of wood on the drill press table I then turn the jig, with the truss in it, upside down, clamp it to the table and then drill the holes.
Make sure the jig is square to the hole saw.
Make sure you use cutting fluid.
Cut reeeeeeeal slow. My lowest setting is something like 318 rpm.
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DSC_0943post.jpgBending the Cap Strips59 viewsThe night before assembly of the rib, the end of the cap strips are soaked and then put into this jig and held with a clamp. This puts the proper curve into the cap strips so that they fit more easily into the rib jig and are easier to work with. This jig is wide enough to bend four upper and four lower cap strips at one time.
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skybolt_parts_023.jpgMore fittings187 viewsHere are a few more fittings recently completed. Upper left are front and rear outer wing attachments (Delta). Bottom right are mating attachments on the center wing section. These have a 6.5 degree bend. The aluminum angle is to attach the outer rib. Upper middle are some 3/16" links with a 2 degree bend. Right of that are brake parts and idler arm posts. All matching parts were meticulously stacked and clamped for drilling.
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axle_clamped.jpgAxle clamped in fixture64 views
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DSC_0901post.jpgClamps removed from the form75 viewsTommy has removed the clamps from the wing tip bow in the jig. Making ready to remove it.
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RearLGJig6.JPGRear Gear Mount72 viewsWhile the jigs are clamped in place, I notched the side plates of the mount to fit the tubes. Then I clamped them to the sides of the vertical jig for tack welding. Notice that the 3/8" rod is also holding the plates in alignment.
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RearLGJig3.JPGRear Gear Mount Alignment69 viewsThe rear gear/front spar mount is located from the line on the floor to a centerline on my 1.75" stick which is clamped in place plumb and square to the fuselage.
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DSC_0894post.jpgView #2 of the wing tip bow in the form76 viewsHere's a good view of the laminations making up the wing tip bow. How many clamps is that?
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DSC_0893post.jpgThe wing tip bow glued and clamped in the form68 viewsThe individual laminations have been glued and clamped into the gluing jig.
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BendStrap.JPGBending the Mount Strap92 viewsAfter tacking and clamping the strap between the side plates, a little heat from the torch will make it bend easily around the bushing.
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IMG_3293post.jpgBottom covered first83 viewsBottom cover is aligned and held in place with clamps while glueing and trimming.
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centersectLE4.jpgcenter section-covered88 viewsThis picture is of the gluing blocks I made to install leading edges. I got this idea from one of the guys on the Starduster forum. The plywood pieces are copied from the contours of the nose ribs. The straight piece is routed, then glued and nailed to the edge of the plywood. The form can be used to pre-bend the leading edges(wet) and also used to glue the leading edges. The forms can be clamped individually, or used with a common header board across the front.
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wingtipply5.jpgwing tips100 viewsI covered this area of the wingtips with basswood. Because of the compound curve on the tip, the basswood is more pliable than the birch, and only slightly less strong. The tip is done in two pieces, upper and lower. I soaked the plywood first and then clamped it to the wing. When it was dry, I removed it and marked it for inside varnish and gluing. After the two pieces were in place, I sanded them to the final contour.
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wingtipply4.jpgwing tips90 viewsHow many clamps does it take to glue a wing tip? Usually about 2 more than you have.
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IMG_0549post.jpgWindscreen81 viewsThe mating surfaces of the mount and the windscreen were scuff sanded. 7 gm. of Araldite 420 A/B was mixed and applied to the mount and windscreen bonding areas. The mount was clecoed to the windscreen for alignment and clamps applied to hold it as well as possible till the Araldite cures.
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IMG_0550post.jpgWindscreen92 viewsWindscreen and mount bonded, clecoed and clamped till the Araldite cures.
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IMG_0996post~0.jpgLanding gear27 viewsThen everything was clamped in place. BTW, I made up the second smaller mount that goes under the tail flying wire attachment.
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IMG_0997post.jpgLanding gear30 viewsThe tail wheel mounting tube was carefully centered on the mounting plate and clamped.
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IMG_7030post.jpgEngine Mount Work42 viewsHere Tommy is cutting the notch in the other end of the tubing. The device clamped on the tubing (blue clamp with digital level on top) is used to ensure the notches in each end are parallel and not skewed.
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